Saturday, August 16, 2008

Forbidden City

After visiting Tiananmen Square, the next place to go was the Forbidden City. I actually hadn't initially realized how close in proximity they are. One entrance to the Forbidden City is right across a main street from Tiananmen. The City, also known as the Imperial Palace, was the ritual center of two dynasties, the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911), and was where they kept their extensive collections. The place is sprawling, covering over 3 million square feet. A very impressive place..
You'll see old bikes like these seen above everywhere.. It's really something. You'd be hard-pressed to find bikes as old as some of the ones I've seen at garage sales. I really want to get a photo series of some of these contraptions I've seen...


With Michael Phelps finally completing his historic Olympic run, that's made the schedule a lot easier for us here... Because the swimming events all started early in the morning here to be shown live in the U.S., it made for some very long work days. Now that he's got his 8 golds, I've gotten a little bit more free time in the mornings to actually get out a little bit before heading into the office. I made the trip here to the Forbidden City solo, just taking about an hour and a half to wander through as much as I could. Probably could have spent a good part of the day, but as always, work beckoned..

Amazingly, there was actually a Starbucks in one part of the Forbidden City for some years..
They removed it about a year ago and replaced it with a Tea House. A bit more fitting...

Snap Happy..

The fella who sits next to me here in the media center is my suitemate, Nelson, and is also the lead photographer in our Beijing bureau. He's coordinating our photo coverage for the Olympics and because his desk is inches away from mine, I'm frequently put to shame just looking over and seeing all the amazing pics he's coming back with every day. Of course, he's also got one lens that cost $12,000 alone..

One of the nice perks for photogs here is that Canon, one of the Olympic sponsors, has an office downstairs from which they'll let the snappers borrow equipment each day, basically like a library for cameras. Nelson was good enough to let me use one of the ones he took out, so one afternoon -- when the sun was shining and there was no smog to be seen hanging in the air -- I decided to get out of the MPC for an hour or so, wander the Olympic Green and snap away.

A mini-parade was rolling by as I strolled through the Green, so took a few shots of a couple of the floats, focusing on the ones I figured Hana and Maia would like best..
The day before, we got some serious rain in the evening and into the night. The result seemed to be that the pollution was washed away, the skies were mostly clear and the sun was shining brightly. It was actually the first in a stretch of great weather days..

There are lots of places to wander in the Olympic Green, which is home to the Bird's Nest stadium, the Water Cube, the main television tower, the sponsor's village, lots of places to wander (see below) plus other venues that house events such as fencing, gymnastics, handball, water polo, modern pentathlon...



The above pic is from the Bird's Nest stadium -- where all the track and field events are held -- looking across the street to our media village. The white "L" and "M" towers are visible in the front; mine is the "Q", which is tucked back a bit..

The above is the view from the other side of the Bird's Nest stadium looking toward the Water Cube, where all the swimming and diving events are held. Behind is a funky-shaped office buiding/hotel with a gigantic digital screen on the front.

While walking through the paths next to the stadium, I saw this little girl walking up and down a sculpture while holding the Chinese flag..

A full picture of the main stadium, with the flaming torch visible just left of center. We've had a few discussions about how teams in the U.S. should think outside the box a bit while building new stadiums.. This is one impressive venue. Of course, the NFL teams that could use a stadium like the Bird's Nest -- the Eagles, Cardinals, Seahawks and Falcons -- all have new facilities.. Maybe an aquarium-themed stadium for the Dolphins?
Some passionate Chinese fans strolling between the stadium and Water Cube.. The government's sports machine is churning out some good athletes and the hosts have dominated sports like shooting, wrestling, diving, gymnastics, etc..

Here's the main TV tower in the complex (above). It's pretty cool at night, lighting up in different colors and has wires at the top that run to a couple of the nearby venues or office buildings so they can run cameras, which makes for some good shots.


The sun is shining and it's warm, so inevitably someone comes down with heat exhaustion. I think that was the case here... It's not surprising on sunny days to see the umbrellas everywhere and people sitting in whatever shaded areas are around.

The gymnastics venue with the Water Cube in the background...
























On the left above is the main entryway to the Intercontinental Hotel, which is attached to the back end of the Main Press Center. Some excellent restaurants in the Intercontinental, which is closer to us in our MPC office than the food court downstairs.. On the right is one of the many umbrellas you'll see on a sunny day...

The Olympic rings and the Chinese flag fly side by side..

Back in the MPC, a masseuse room is one of the things available for overworked and overstressed journalists.. You sign up on a sheet -- usually have to do it a couple days in advance because of the demand -- and then get a 15- to 20-minute neck, shoulder, upper back massage. I did it the one day and it just wasn't enough to work out all the kinks from too many hours and not enough sleep. They also have a small gym next to this room as well as a barbershop..

Some traditional Chinese medicines on the wall in the masseuse room. Snapped as I waited my turn..

Back in the MPC bunker, Scott wonders why when he calls the U.S. at 2 p.m. Beijing time, nobody answers...

Aussie mate Baynes asking when its time for some Tsingtao beers while Singapore-based Grant ponders what request is going to come down next from above. He's running the show for us here in Beijing. Larry plugs away at everything Phelps in the background..

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Wo bu mingbai...

Wo bu mingbai. It's a useful phrase meaning "I don't understand" in Mandarin.

For me, I figured it would be especially useful in my first long-distance cab ride. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure plenty of tourists have used similar phrases in numerous languages with New York cabbies, but I'm just not going to be any help trying to navigate in Beijing.
I was heading to the opening of Club Bud, a Budweiser-sponsored nightclub that'll be open every other night during the Olympics. Unfortunately, it was toward the other side of Beijing, so that meant about a 25 to 30-minute cab ride, depending on traffic. Being that I was going solo, at night, in strange city, I was a bit apprehensive...

After walking out of the hotel, I headed to the taxi stand on a nearby corner. In my hand was the invite with directions in Chinese. I walked up to the row of four taxis, greet the first driver and hand him the sheet. He looks at it for a couple seconds, then hands it to the next driver, who studies it intently before yelling to a third driver who's standing in the street. That guy just stands there for a bit before shaking his head no. Guy No. 2 then starts talking with the fourth driver, who walks to his cab at the front of the line and starts putting things in the trunk. He then takes out a ledger and starts leafing through it. I continue to just stand on the curb thinking NY cabbies would probably be fighting each other to the death with tire irons to get the fare.

Finally, cabbie No. 2 points to the very first guy I gave the sheet to. Somehow, he was the loser by default, I assume. There were seemingly some pretty extensive directions on the sheet, so I figured I'd probably be okay. After a 25-minute ride, the driver makes a left across a busy intersection, stops in front of a big gated Chinese temple with spotlights and points to it. I pay him, hop out and walk through the front gates where I see hanging from the front of the building... a Heineken banner. Yes, it was the wrong place. Turns out it was some kind of a Dutch Olympic shindig. I took a quick walk through the building, took a brief look at some of the stuff -- history, apparel, etc -- and went right back out.

I figured the driver couldn't be THAT far off, but who knows. So I picked a direction and started walking. Turns out I was right, so the place was only about a block down the street. When I got there, the PR guy I'd dealt with said he'd been getting calls from a whole bunch of people because of issues with directions. So who knows, maybe the cabbie was right after all.

I'd planned to go to the party to talk to some members of the U.S. taekwondo team for a feature I was working on. Three siblings from the same family were on the team -- Steven, Mark and Diana Lopez -- and their oldest brother is the coach. Their parents were there too, so I wanted to talk with them. Really a pretty cool story. The parents came to the U.S. from Nicaragua in 1972 and the father had a passion for the martial arts, though he never had the opportunity to do it when he was younger. But every weekend, the kids joined him as he'd watch Kung Fu Theater and movies with Bruce Lee and Chuck Norris, and they got sucked into the sport. Flash forward to today and they're the first sibling trio to represent the U.S. in the same Olympics in 104 years. To hear the pride in Julio Lopez's voice when he talked about his kids was really special; he said he came to the U.S. 36 years ago in hopes of living the American dream, but never could have imagined a scenario in which all of his children would be in China representing the U.S. in the Olympics. I actually reached out to the publicist for Chuck Norris in hopes of getting a comment for the story and he asked me to pass along the family's cell phone number so Chuck could wish them luck or congratulations. They'd never crossed paths before, so I'm hoping I do my part to help Julio realize another dream and talk to Chuck Norris himself!

After leaving the party, I realized I didn't have directions back, but found a cabbie who at least understood "Bird's Nest" -- the Olympic Stadium. So it was actually a pretty quick and painless ride back. And below is the cab ride through the city to my next destination... Tiananmen Square. Finally getting out a bit to see some of what Beijing has to offer...


Tiananmen Square

I couldn’t have picked a much better place for my first real trip to experience Beijing. Tiananmen Square is the large central plaza near central Beijing and covers about 100 acres, making it the largest open urban-square in the world.

Many people outside of China know it for the Tiananmen Square protests of 1989 and this famous pic.







It’s named after Tiananmen, “The Gate of Heavenly Peace,” which sits on the north end of the square and separates it from the Forbidden City. The Forbidden City sits behind that gate in the picture below..

My driver drove me over to the area and then most of the way around the square so I could see how big it is. Then, although he didn’t speak English, he motioned to where I would have to go to find the steps under the street to get into the plaza. Very helpful fellow. Because the area is so crowded, there are tunnels that run under the streets to keep pedestrians from walking across. Very smart because a lot of streets in other parts of the city seem to be like a game of Frogger, with people crossing in random spots, stopping and starting, and no cars slowing down for anyone.


The only things actually in the square are the 125-foot high Monument to the People’s Heroes (seen below) and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong.


Note that it wasn't raining on this day, but umbrellas are VERY popular among the Chinese women for shade.





As always in China, a military presence..





Phelps the Phish

If there's one athlete who is required watching at the 2008 Olympics, it's Michael Phelps.

There was no question I had to get over to the Water Cube to watch the freak of nature as he punched a hole in history. These are the Michael Phelps Olympics, have no question about that. He is the star of this show, and not just for NBC, which tweaked the swimming schedule to make sure all the swimming finals air live in the U.S.

All those finals he swims in? Might seem late in the U.S., but those are just after 10 in the morning here in Beijing. Makes for a VERY long day for all of us who have to get up early to cover the swimming stuff and then end up staying late into the night for all the other events.

Because of the heavy interest in Phelps, media members have to put in a request to actually get a special pass for entry on those days. Spots are definitely limited. I took in his 2oom freestyle final on Tuesday the 12th and man was that impressive. Wasn't even close. The guy is just effortless power. He blistered his own world record, yet again, by almost a second and dusted the runner-up by almost 2 seconds. His WR time is posted on the scoreboard below on the inside of the bubbled Water Cube.

I was a bit more subtle in snapping that photo than a journalist a section over was in getting up from his seat. The guy, who was on the end of his row, stands up to walk out in the steep stairwell, catches his foot on his chair and down it goes.. Bam, bam, bam, tumbling down the steps as everybody on one side of the stadium stands up to look, especially the TV people directly below. The poor chap just stands there with his hands on the sides of his face like Macaulay Culkin in 'Home Alone.' Fortunately it happened after the race and not as Phelps was on the starting platform...

Another thing about Phelps, he just might be the most popular athlete here among other U.S. athletes, the NBA guys included. Everybody wants to meet him. Kobe, Jason Kidd and a couple other US hoops players came to his race the other day to cheer him on and take some pictures with his mom. Every day, there were different US athletes coming to see him race. And why not? It's history in the making...

After taking in some of the other swimming finals on that day, I headed out to wander around the sponsor's village, which is part of the main Olympic green.

Below is the fencing venue I passed on the walk there, with this year's Olympic slogan -- ``One World, One Dream" on the side of the building.


There were some big screens throughout the sponsor village, with the Chinese dominated sports like diving, weightlifting and ping pong being the most popular among viewers. The folks below were gathered watching the Chinese snag yet another gold in diving.


These are a green Olympics, at least according to organizers, and China's largest energy company -- which I was told was bigger than Exxon Mobil -- got in on the act here...



Coca-Cola, the same the world over...


The following pic is from the front of the Main Press Center as the organizers ramped up security a bit around various areas. After being greeted by this bad boy coming out of the media center one night, we thought it might be a not-so-subtle message to journalists not to mess with the Chinese government..

Monday, August 11, 2008

Play Underway

After what seemed like endless buildup, the Games themselves finally begun!

I only came five days before the start of the actual competition, unlike most of my colleagues. Our team leader, Grant from Singapore, was here a couple weeks before. Lead editor Larry was here a week before me and Dan and Scott were here several days after that.. So they had even more seemingly interminable buildup than I experienced..

The very first event I ended up going to on the first Sunday of competition was the men's volleyball match between the U.S. and Venezuela. The venue was about a 20-minute drive and, as usual, we very nearly took out several locals on their motorbikes along the way. And when I say motorbikes, these things really look like the old-school 3-speed Schwinns with a motor attached somewhere. And there is usually a driver and someone precariously perched sidesaddle on the back, or a kid hanging on, or several giant plastic bags filled with who knows what bungee corded on on the back. We've already had several near misses. Whether it's driving, walking or crossing the road, there's not a lot of giving-way here; you take your chances...

But I went to the U.S.-Venezuela game because of an unfortunate incident the day before in which the father-in-law of the indoor volleyball head coach was stabbed to death at a tourist site near the Forbidden City in central Beijing. He was a huge supporter of the US volleyball programs -- his daughter played on the women's '04 Olympic team in Athens -- and traveled all over the globe to watch the teams play. His wife also suffered life-threatening injuries in the attack, but it turns out they weren't being targeted (they weren't wearing anything that would connect them to the U.S. or a team), it was just a random act of violence by a very depressed man who was recently divorced and hadn't been seen by his family members in months. The guy actually jumped to his death from the Drum Tower right after the attack. So... I was at the game to do a follow-up story on the emotional impact of the incident connected with the team's first game. Turned out to be a great game. I hadn't seen volleyball at such a high level in person. It was like watching a basketball game where every other play was a dunk in someone's face or a complete rejection. Great stuff.. And the U.S. ended up winning and I ended up getting unprecedented kudos from the head of our news organization for the story.



That same night was the first basketball game for the U.S. men's team. The latest Dream Team. Or Redeem Team, if you will, since they're trying to get back the gold they embarassingly lost in '04. Scott and I went over to the game about 3 hours beforehand knowing that it was going to be packed with media and that we had to get seats. We debated before leaving whether we should get dinner -- it was a 10:15 p.m. start in China, 10:15 a.m. on the U.S. East coast -- but Scott says, "Let's just get some hot dogs or something at the game."

Here's the deal: That ain't gonna happen in China. Oh, they had hot dogs on the sign at the arena, but as the Aussie behind me in line at the one concession stand we saw said, "If you troiy that, you're a gay-mah!" (It turns out he did say "gamer" and not "gay man"). The "hot dog" was some kind of unrefrigerated sausage-like meat, on a stick, that was vacu-sealed in a plastic casing. "You troiy that, you wownt be workin th' morrow," the Aussie offers.

Yeah, so we ended up skipping dinner.

The game itself was somewhat of an event: the largest global audience for a basketball game in history, with more than a billion expected viewers. George W was also on hand for the occassion and was sitting about 20 seats to my left. Of course my camera was still to weak to actually zoom in on him effectively, but that's him in the blue shirt leaning back to speak with who I believe is Henry Kissinger. There's also a secret service guy behind him trying to figure out what I'm pointing at them and an usher in the foreground sleeping, apparently.

The following day I headed over to the Water Cube, the giant swimming venue that glows blue at night and appears to be covered in bubble wrap. Yet again, a very impressive arena.
Across the street from the Cube, there's a series of fountains that shoot water up in sequence to music, which is pretty cool. Fans can run through 'em, dance in 'em, try to time the jets. Inevitably, there's a lot of yelling and people getting wet.
On this day I didn't actually go in, but hung outside to talk to fans for a story I was working on.
I couldn't have gotten in anyway because the media actually had to get ticketed for the swimming medal events because there's so much demand. But it would have been a great day to be there because this was the day that Michael Phelps won his second gold on the 4 x 100m freestyle relay in stunning fashion, beating the French team that had talked smack by the slimmest of touches, .08 of a second.
The Frenchman who swam the final leg was the world record holder at the distance at said the French team was going to "smash" the Americans at the Olympics. Instead, he lost almost half a body-length on the final lap to lose the race. It was an awesome scene, but unfortunately I was just outside the arena.

Will definitely get over to the Water Cube to catch Phelps in the next couple days though!

Saturday, August 9, 2008

MPC!

Unfortunately, I haven't gotten a chance to really experience much of Beijing outside the Olympics yet. Hopefully I will get a chance to get out and see some of the sights...
So far I've spent a good part of my first week here working 12- to 15-hour days, with much of that spent in the Main Press Center, better known as the beloved MPC building seen below. As with almost all the venues here at the Games, it's new, shiny and impressive.
The sprawling building has almost 670,000 square feet and during the Olympics is home to 5,600 journalists and photographers, plus an almost equal number of staff, volunteers and contractors. There are five press conference rooms, a media food court and the requisite McDonald's on the lower level. A Big Mac costs 15 yuan (RMB) which is about $2.25.

There's a main media room at the MPC, but there are also numerous offices scattered throughout for the bigger outlets. We have our own office, which is quite good. Definitely bigger and better than the one we have in Trenton..
Here's a shot of our digs, we've got about nine workstations, plus three big screen TVs, a refrigerator stocked with water, soda and Tsingtao, a cabinet with snacks and that lovely futon you can see there in the photo. Except for some nagging network problems, the remote bureau has been quite good.
From the media village, it's about a 20-minute shuttle ride to the MPC. It's about the same if you try to walk, though during the heat of the day that can get you real sweaty... The good part about walking is that you get to see the sights and walk through the central Olympic plaza past the Bird's Nest, the Water Cube and some of the other venues.. Plus you get to see cool signs like this one! "Safe Traffic for the Olympic" and "Smiling Beijing Traffic Police"